Reaching empty plates!

To pick up where I left off: I will not. To excuse myself: I will not. To return with a more extensive and deeper understanding of food and a passion and love more prevalent than ever: I will.

Since the pages of these blog were last updated my culinary journey has gone uphill, downhill, around every corner and back again and still more and more paths show up as I continue on my way. I have now completed the Ballymaloe Cookery Course as well as having undertaken a stage in London’s finest Italian restaurant ‘Bocca di Lupo’ and Covent Garden’s increasingly popular ‘Balthazar’ bakery. Not only this but so too have we seen the coming and going of the first Ballymaloe Literary Festival. A weekend filled with some of the most inspiring cooks from around the world, at which I was given the opportunity to get involved with some of the cooking. My part may have been small, but preparing the food for the demos of Rachel Allen, David Thompson, Tomassina Miers and some of NOMA’s chefs was a great experience. Being part of the weekend in general was a pretty special feeling. Here’s hoping it will be the first of many festivals here.

In fact although it was not my intention as I began this post to write about the Ballymaloe Literary Festival, I will go on just a little bit longer about it as I feel that a few adorning words just won’t suffice.

First off, the setting. The all too familiar surroundings of the cookery school and house were perfect. On a sunny May weekend with trees and flowers alike in full bloom, the setting was truly idyllic. There was a great buzz around as hundreds of people of all ages and from all over the world came to the festival and I am delighted that they were given the opportunity to experience Ballymaloe in all it’s glory.

One of the main attractions was the ‘Big Shed’. The Allen’s had stylishly converted one of their farm sheds into a children’s play centre and food market by day and by night it became the closest thing to a nightclub which the area is most likely to ever see. There were foods of the finest quality from all over the world (with a most prominent presence of local produce) coupled with wines, coffees and teas of great variety and interest.

One of the few discussions which I attended was the ‘New Voices in Food’, a panel discussion between Rachel Allen, Donal Skeehan, Stevie Parle, Tomassina Miers and Claire Ptak. The hour and a half long session covered many topics of great interest from hearing back stories to food blogging to handling media and journalism. This was of course of particular interest to me, as writing and journalism have featured prominently in my past, and are elements which I hope will continue into my future. It was incredible to consider and hear about the achievements of each, and how each hold very different but specific roles in the world of food. Each found their niche in a world which they were drawn into by fate alone. Although I am a little skeptical of over-used inspirational quotes, I couldn’t deny the proof sitting before me which echoed the words ‘stick to what you do, to what you love and you can and will achieve’. Then I cast my mind to Darina as she says ‘there may be twelve guesthouses on a street, but one of them has to be the best, why wouldn’t it be yours?’

I was particularly impressed by Rachel Allen and Donal Skeehan. Rachel, perhaps it is because I have come to know her through the school, nevertheless she has a manner like no other: warm, friendly and light-hearted, and it is an approach to food which I try to uphold when I cook. It is no surprise that she has become one of the leading ladies in food. As for Donal, he shared a similar manner allowing for great banter between the two, but not only this, he spoke with the same passion which I possess. Only a couple of years older than myself, he demonstrated just what could be achieved. He spoke up for food bloggers and it became evident that his success to date stemmed solely from his love for food. As Irish representatives in the food world, we can be very proud of them both and our countries subsequent presence there.

The weekend was a huge success as myself and many other people left inspired and empowered. Anything became possible. My hopes are simply to understand as much about food as I can and maybe one day share them with many more, and already I have found these dreams becoming a reality as I am frequently asked by the people around me ‘how do I do this?’ and ‘what should I do with that?’ It’s empowering and humbling to know that others will seek your advice about a topic which puts them in their most vulnerable state. When we are eating, we are rarely thinking about the outside world. The heart of food is captured in one sensuous moment… after another… after another… Until we reach empty plates.

 

 

Every cake has a story

 

Cake! Rachel Allen has a book entitled ‘cake’ and when I think about it, isn’t it just the perfect title? Just one word is enough to inspire, excite and put a twinkle in the eye of anyone. I love cake. Eating it and making it. I always have really. In fact it’s where most of us start off cooking; cupcakes are, for many of us, the first things we made with our mothers and funnily enough they are one of the treats that we enjoy at any age. Hence why bakeries like Hummingbird Bakery and Magnolia Bakery have become so hugely popular and rightly so, they make great cupcakes, among other delicious treats.

Can you guess what I was making in the kitchen this morning then? Cake, coffee cake to be precise. Two of my favourite things combined in a seriously versatile treat. One thing I had to consider this week was the occasion a cake was needed for, and the coffee cake is great in so many situations. It suits a conservative crowd, as well as pleasing those looking for something different from the usual sponge. As it happens, Friday night was the year anniversary mass marking my grandmothers passing and so I had told my mother that she didn’t need to worry about cakes and so on, I would sort that out so as to relieve her of another stress. The coffee cake was perfect for this. Although I will get to talking about the baking of this cake, I think it is important to realise the significance of such a piece of food. Every cake has a story, and in this case the coffee cake will always be the cake that my neighbour brought to the house every Christmas.

From my experience, cakes are approached in a few different ways. Presentation can be totally simple but the taste magnificent or presentation can be a huge selling point and the taste secondary yet great nonetheless and of course, there are the complete disasters which happen to all if us with this temperamental treat but let’s not dwell on them, we are all learning. Set a challenge by the teachers to create the prettiest cake, I was surprised to find that I didn’t care so much, I really just wanted to make a great cake without going over the top with chocolate swirls and all that jazz. When it came to making the cake, I found however that my mind did drift towards presentation when the making of it was under way. I decided on a glacé icing as it is something which I haven’t done before, and if it goes right then it should give a nice smooth finish to the cake. Having seen an example of such a cake on Thursday’s demo, I knew that that was essentially what I wanted to achieve. Their cake stood there on the plate and said quite simply ‘I am a coffee cake, and I will taste incredible’. How could I attempt anything else with this pillar of the cake community?

The cake itself posed little difficulty to make once the recipe was followed precisely. Lining the bases of the tins first was a great decision, on the advice of my teacher. It just allowed me to get the mixture straight into the tin and into the oven without having to let it sit around. Advice which was also offered and I feel is necessary to pass on is to spread the mixture so that there is a dip in the center  therefore when the center rises, it will be more on level with the sides which is exactly what you need for making this stacked cake. Also, although all recipes come with stated times, consider them to be just a guideline. In the case of cakes however, I found it to be very important to keep a constant eye on them, as I noticed many cakes around the kitchen going from under-cooked to over-cooked in the space of a few minutes.

At every stage of the creation, I had been happy with my progress, and when it came to icing, I discovered the greatness of a palate knife. Constant dipping in warm water, and the icing spread like a dream. However, when I found myself with a few minutes to spare, I went about achieving what had, in my head, seemed like a great idea: the cappuccino dream, and so I plonked a bit of cream on top and chocolate sprinkles. It was weird, I felt like I knew that cream shouldn’t be used, but I still went ahead and did it. I soon found out that cream and glace icing is a big no no! Another lesson learned… Otherwise my cake was brilliant and had the best texture of all the cakes. It was a ‘shame’ that I had done what I did, but never the less taking it off wasn’t too much hassle.

On the same note of success, I had also made a white yeast bread which ‘would have been the perfect bread’ had I let it to sit for just a little while longer. A little bit gutting to think that I almost had it spot on, but seriously, I’m one step away, and panicking at the sight of the clock should never influence my bread. As they say ‘only fools rush in’, well I guess I’m nearly there. Monday shall see the greatest bread of all time.

On a final note, to explain the attached pictures, I also made a number of cakes for the family mass, including the Rachel Allen recipe frangipane, raspberry and coconut squares, lemon drizzle cake and a caramelised banana tart. Bar the lemon drizzle cake, each was a first attempt, and by the end of the night all that remained was a piece of frangipane which I had kept aside for my own little treat. Yum!

 

 

I feel like chicken tonight

 

Due to unforeseen circumstances, our scheduled Wednesday theory day was postponed until Thursday and so, unexpectedly, we found ourselves in the kitchen for a morning of hard work. On my menu was a beautiful chicken salad with blood orange and fennel, as well as the roast potatoes, swede and carmelised onions, and of course, our daily bread.

Although I am not a big meat eater, chicken I have to say seems to be an exception. I could and do eat it all year round, a couple of times a week. In fact, there are that many different ways of cooking a chicken, that I believe that I could eat it every evening for a year without moaning. It is true though, chicken has many ways in which it can be served, as the main component of a roast or as a feature of a salad. It also seems like a real crowd-pleaser, with very few people ever saying no to the world’s favourite bird.

It is simple to roast a chicken and to say you don’t have the time is just silly. Butter and season the bird and into the oven it goes , to be left sitting there for an hour and a half. That is all there is to it, until the carving of course.

The roast potatoes had a fantastic crispy shell once they were done in the oven. Part boiled and into an oven with olive oil for 40 mins is the method here in Ballymaloe. They were just a step above the average, and incredibly simple to create. As for the swede and onions, then don’t be fooled by a recipe that suggests it will take a long time to carry out these tasks, that is an understatement. The onions took at least 2 hours and the swede another hour and 30 minutes. It is not so much the time consumption, rather the constant need to watch and stir the food items, the onions were inclined to catch at the bottom of the pan, and so the lowest heat possible is the best option.

Coming back to the chicken, the main reason why I wanted to cook it was so that I would have the opportunity to cut it as we will have in our technique exam in two weeks time. I have noticed an improvement in my carving abilities and so I was pleased with myself.

Segmenting citrus fruit is also a required skill, one which there are many who struggle with mastering, however five blood oranges later, I feel like a pro. This provided me with the blood orange for the salad.

Unusually I stuck very much to the idea that Rachel had presented the evening beforehand, and that meant laying it all on one big plate. I love sharing plates too. It was different to my usual approach, and one which won has me no favour with my teacher, but nevertheless would look spectacular on the table at any family feast.

On the subject of this salad, I might mention that now those blood oranges are in season and are not to be missed. Grab what you can and start making some of the delicious spring dishes which incorporate this bold flavour.

 

Another tick off the shopping list

On Day One Darina mentioned that week 5 and week 10 would be the most difficult weeks and by difficult she meant simply that students may feel a little drained: mentally and energetically. If I’m honest with you, I think this must have been my week 5. Mentally, I was as enthusiastic as ever, but despite that, it seemed that my body had other ideas. You know when you have been working a lot, been constantly busy and you don’t seem to have hardly stopped for a cup of tea, then your body decides it has had enough whether you like it or not? Well that’s what seemed to happen to me. First warning was the finger and then by the end of the week, I had been hit by an almighty cold, it forced me to take an early night, but still later the next day, after demo, I was still set to get to work, when the universe decided to step in. In a big ‘slow down John’ statement, the road between Ballymaloe and Midleton became flooded and so work was not an option. Ok, I get it, earlier nights will be had and I will slow down. As it happens, this morning, after a night in in front of the fire watching mindless TV and countless cups of tea, I feel a whole lot better.

Anyway, while all this was going on, so was plenty of food related business, so I shall turn my mind and writings to that. Working with just my right hand was an experience. I noticed just how weak it was really and how awkward it made tasks like transferring dough from a bowl to the worktop. I think it is about time I gave that hand some more responsibility. My poor left hand is getting a well-earned rest then anyway. In spite of the challenges, I managed to get an assortment of biscuits and breads plated up, as well as several jars of redcurrant jelly. My lemon drizzle cakes even found their way into Darina’s lunch box, which is kind of fun to know that Darina Allen would later that day be eating your food. Having said that, I hadn’t expected it and so had played around a bit a thrown a mint leaf or two into the process. I’m just hoping she enjoyed it.

Demonstration with Rachel Allen was very interesting then. She cooked prawns, shrimp and cray fish from live. It was a process which I had never seen before and had always flinched at as a child. The biggest surprise was the colour change in shrimp. Into the pot they go as brown jumpy little creatures, and they resurface only minutes later with this beautiful orange colour. It was like a really cool science experiment.

We also learnt to make mayonaisse and ketchup, among many other dipping sauces, which again surprised me at their simplicity. They will keep in the cupboard or the fridge just like the once you buy in the supermarket, and so I will most certainly be making my own from now on. Or at least, at the earliest convenience, I will make the equivalent of a years supply. Better quality, and another tick off the shopping list. I think this for me is one of the most exciting elements of the course, as I realise just how much I can stop buying and start making. Jams, marmalade, wraps, sauces and so on, might take a mornings work, but in that you have made a supply to last you months.

We also had a wine tasting evening featuring the wines of Portugal. We sampled two whites and two reds, and found intriguing results. As a white wine drinker, I was surprised when I didn’t like either of the white wines. As a red wine avoider, I was equally surprised when I loved the reds. I love this new view I have on the world of wine.

Rory went on to demonstrate also the cooking of burgers. It is quite ironic given the current shambles we have found ourselves in regarding certain meats. However, it is not something we are dwelling on, it is an embarrassment and also disappointment. Not only this, but it is further emphasis on the importance of knowing where your food comes from. Anyway, here we were presented with numerous takes on a burger. Although many burger restaurants came into fashion a few years ago, I still feel like there is room for a really fantastic burger bar. Presentation wise, we were shown an array of plates, but I think it is quite simple when serving a burger; get it on a plate with some chips and possibly some salad. No frills, only good food which will fill you up. It was interesting to consider it from a different view point though, and I look forward to seeing exactly what I come up with on Monday morning in the kitchen.

Nothing sticky about a jam situation

No rest for the wicked, heh? After a weekend of work, it was straight back into the kitchen this morning. Like the Beyoncé of the culinary world, I am becoming a machine. On the menu today was a pear, persimmon and pecan salad and a pasta with chorizo in a creamy, spicy tomato sauce. I also managed to rustle up a jar of jam (or 5) to accompany my cooking partners scones.

There was another strong emphasis on teamwork today, as I found myself in a position of having time surplus to requirements and when my partners pastry was being temperamental, it became my priority to help out with her washing and to continue with our section checklist. Then it comes to the kitchen blitz, although being assigned a certain number of ovens to clean, when I finish mine, I get straight to helping out with the others. I’m aware that at this point, it sounds like I am trying to portray myself as some kind of kitchen angel, but be sure that as I was doing this, the other pairs scattered around the kitchen were demonstrating the same comradery. Not only this, but I had been on the stressful end of the workload on days previous, so it is not about standing out, it is about feeding people great food with maximum efficiency.

Whilst some of these recipes might sound incredibly easy, they are, but I have to admit that they amaze me. Why on earth haven’t I just been making my own jam all of my life? It is something that we could all do. Doubtful? Take 900g of granulated sugar and 900g of raspberries, pop the sugar in a pyrex bowl in the oven at 180 degrees and heat the raspberries in a big saucepan until they burst. After 10 minutes in the oven, take out the sugar and add it to the raspberries. Keep the jam on the boil for a further five minutes or so. To test the jam to see if it is set, take a chilled plate, spoon a small amount of mixture onto the plate and put into the fridge for a minute. Once set, run your finger through the jam, at which point you are looking for a wrinkle to confirm the jam is set. If you look closely at the picture below, you might be able to see said wrinkle. If the jam doesn’t quite set then simply put it back on the boil and repeat test procedure until  the jam is set. Simple.

The afternoon, then brought about our first demo under the instruction of Rachel Allen. There was an obvious level of excitement amongst a few students, who openly admitted to being fans. Each tutor has a very distinct style, what Rachel brought was a realness. It is a quality quite difficult to describe, but she demonstrated incredible skill, was extremely engaging and yet at times she seemed to get a bit flustered by the work. This in itself was quite endearing. It was most like she was cooking for a family. Many of us have been there. You want to do your best, you get a little bit addled by the work, but nevertheless, it all comes together and indeed Rachel presented some beautiful dishes, which I cannot wait to get in the kitchen and cook tomorrow. It was also helpful that she was a fellow left-hander and took a moment at various crucial points to point out how one might approach a certain technique, with both their right and left hands. Small point, but one which was undoubtedly helpful to many.

We also had our first birthday of the term today, as Lawrence, my room mate, turned 19. To mark the occassion Rachel presented him with a chocolate cake after demo, at which point the room sang a chorus of Happy Birthday. Back at the house later, there came more chocolate cake and a room full of balloons. Happy Birthday Lawrence.